Heavy modification of a white lace dress for the character of Lois Franklin in the final act of the jukebox musical Sh-Boom! Life Could be a Dream. Based on doo-wop songs of the 1960s, the musical premiered in 2009. Designed by Nancy Hill for Lyric Repertory Theater. Summer 2024

The dress in stock already closely matched the design, but needed major fitting modifications. Initial measurements determined the approximate size of a panel to be inserted in the center back. The bodice and skirt were separated, and the center front closure (hook and eye tape) was removed.

After a few swatches of stock fabrics layered under excess lace, the right combination to match the existing bodice was determined. The additional piece is inserted into the center back. A bone is placed at each new seam and at the center back of the new panel for stability.

A fitting with the bodice and skirt in two pieces determined the fit of the bodice with its new back panel, and the placement for new straps was marked with safety pins.

The new straps are drafted on the same fabric combination as the new back panel and lined with the same piping as the top and bottom of the bodice. At another fitting, the placement of the straps is refined.

The bodice and skirt are reunited. The skirt is gathered onto a waistband of bias tape which is whipstitched with two strands of silamide to the inside of the bodice. The hook and eye tape at the center front closure are also reattached.

Due to quick change restraints, all of the petticoats were rigged into the dress itself. Three petticoats (only two shown) are cross-stitched on the inside to account for the waistbands’ elasticity.

The flowers at the neckline were returned last, with a snap under the center front flower as it spans the opening.