Evening cape
Gauzy cape worn by the character of Judith Bliss during Act II of Hay Fever by Noël Coward. Designed by Nancy Hill for Lyric Repertory Theater.
Summer 2024
Although the fashion fabric itself did have flowers embroidered into it, they were only near one selvedge edge. Additionally, the height of the fabric was insufficient, so an addition of black mesh was sewn to the top. As the design called for a completely floral cape, scraps of the fashion fabric with flowers were pinned over bald patches and seams.
Initially simply a massive rectangle, the cape was draped and hand pinned along the arm. This permitted room for adjustment if the designer desired. Several different hems were roughly thread marked on the fabric.
Each patch of embroidery was carefully hand-stitched around and the excess mesh cut away. To stabilise the entire cape, the edges were bound in black cotton bias binding, as was the centre back seam.
Beaded appliqués embellish the closure at center front, three strategically placed opera hooks. To stabilise the heavy beading, a black cotton backing was added, carefully cut around the shapes of the applique.
Final stabilising measures included a black twill band across the back and snaps at each shoulder to keep the cape from shifting out of place as the actress moved.
The accompanying headpiece was made in much the same manner as the cape, with scrap flowers arranged and stitched onto a stretchy sequin band, along with some feathers.
Gardening dress
Summery “gardening” dress worn by the character of Judith Bliss during Act I of Hay Fever by Noël Coward. Designed by Nancy Hill for Lyric Repertory Theater.
Summer 2024
The entire garment was cut out of a few large silk handkerchiefs, and each piece was individually backed with pale pink china silk. Although the top of the skirt was sewn to china silk, the hems were left free, but swing tacked to prevent any riding-up of the lining.
The dress’s construction was relatively straightforward, being a typical 1920’s day dress. The skirt was carefully knife pleated into the bodice and secured with a row of basting to maintain the pleats’ integrity.
The edge of the collar was finished with twill tape and turned under, then carefully hand stitched to the thin layer of china silk.
